1850's Bonnets for "Sisters"........

Its fun getting custom orders. Why? Because its an opportunity to create an item out of your own box. It's easy enough for me to visual something I have in mind and create it. But doing it for someone else is challenging. And challenges are always fun.
I just finished this lovely pair of bonnets that actually "mirror" each other. A client wanted two matching bonnets for a pair of American Girl dolls that she referred to as "sisters."
So, both bonnets were created with black velvet. One of my favorite choices. Because black for one goes with everything it seems. And the velvet just gives it that luxurious look. The inside I lined both bonnets with 100% cotton muslin in white. Then with a pretty white lace I gathered and sewn in the inside to create the shirring. Both bonnets then got black gosgrain ribbon ties. The two at this point are completely the same.
Both bonnets feature royal blue feathers on the top, with a royal blue ribbon rosette in a star pattern. Finished off in the middle with small black jet beads. Not vintage of course. But they looked like miniature black jet buttons I once had that were vintage. On the inside brim of the bonnets soft blue forget-me-knots were sewn in. The only difference between the two was that the rosette and flowers were sewn in on opposite sides of each bonnet. And the feathers face the opposite side. So that when one looks at them from side to side, the bonnets mirror each other. Thus, giving each one its own distinct look.

Happy New Year!!

2010. It seems kind of strange. I remember back when I was a teenager wondering what the year 2000, and beyond that would be like. It seemed so futuristic!!
But here we are, 2010. And for the most part it seems unchanged. Except that we a bit older, and some of us are a bit gray. Some of us. Not all of us!
So, with that said I was thinking of what I wanted to achieve this year. As far as my sewing, art and craft projects would be. So I have compiled a "list" of things I want to do, plan to do, or maybe even get to do!
One is to extend my doll clothing inventory more so and be able to actually list 100 items in my etsy shop. Another goal, is to widen the base of options in dolly couture as well!! My plans are to offer a set of dolly underwear packages. Thanks to my cousins' little girl Ariana, age 6. She recently got her first American Girl doll, and was shocked to discover she did not come with panties. I constructed a pair of panties for her doll. And now I am revising the pattern and plan on offer a set of panties for American Girl dolls. For goodness sakes!! Even they need panties!!
My next goal is to work on more OOAK dolls this year. I discovered a fabulous pattern in which the doll has more realistic features!! Finding good knit fabric in flesh tone though I'm finding is a bit harder than I anticipated!! This pattern Im going to use to construct some OOAK fairie dolls.
I also started sewing rag dolls and in the process of redoing a pattern piece so that the doll will have elf ears. I am going to transform these rag dolls into Elfin dolls!! And my goal is to make some of those up too for my etsy shop.
My next order of business is to construct some ribbon browbands. A new venture for me and one that I hope takes off. I will probably write more about this in the future. But for now I'll just tell you that they are fancy show browbands for bridles. So that you and your horse can go into the showring with a little pizzazz!!
Finally, my next goal is to sew more period clothing!! Period!! And sew for myself. I have some beautiful green plaid homespun ready to cut out and sew up into a nice daydress for myself. But the one thing I want to do that I have not done, is to construct another bonnet!! I also plan on writing about this with directions and such for those who are interesting in bonnet making!!
And lastly, I've been so eager to paint a portrait of my lovely daughter!! I did one in watercolor about five years ago. I used a portrait of her when she was about four years old. This time I wanted to do one in acrylic on a larger canvas and one of her in period clothing. I'm glad to say that I finally got my start on it and started sketching it out!!

Well, that's about it for now. Until then, ya'll have a prosperous New Year!!

~Belle~

1860 Capped Sleeve Day Dress

Here is my friend Becca wearing the new day dress I made for her. It's an 1860's capped sleeve day dress made using the Galla Rock pattern. This is the first time I ever used a Galla Rock pattern and overall I was very happy with it. There were a few things in the directions that didn't make sense to me. Such as the directions to pleating the skirt to the waistband. But ultimatly I ended up just doing it the way I wanted and it came out great.Which I'll explain in a little bit.
The fabric is a beautiful chocolate brown cotton with bright pink flowers on it. The Victorians loved bright colors. And if you could see originals, you will see that often they used strange combinations of colors. Combinations today that we would think extreme.
At first I thought it would be too much brown. But with the bright pink fabric added in on the underneath of the caps, hem trim, and the fabric covered buttons it brought the flowers in the fabric out and blended beautifully with the chocolate brown.
I first started with taking Becca's measurements and then preceeded to cut out a muslin bodice on the size just larger than what her measurements were. It's much easier to take in than let out.
After the first fitting I knew where I had to make adjustments, and took the bodice in, shortened the waistline a bit as well as shorten the sleeves. Once that was done, we did another fitting just to make sure the bodice fit well. I also sewn in the muslin sleeves to see how well they would fit. When a good fit was achieved I took the muslin bodice apart and utilized that as my pattern pieces as well as used the muslin bodice as my lining. This saved on muslin fabric. I then constructed the bodice and before setting in the sleeves, added the caps and the piping on the armsyce of the sleeves. The caps I decorated with a pretty bright pink box pleat ribbon, and a chocolate brown soutache braid with velvet ribbon going through it.
My only issue I had with piping, is that in period time the piping was thin. Piping today is much larger and trying to achieve the correct thickness of the piping can be quite challenging.
The skirt was five panels measuring a total of six yards. This is a very very FULL skirt, and we could have gotten away with just four panels. The problem I had was trying to pleat six yards of fabric onto a small waistband. It took me about three days of trying to work it out, but I eventually managed to do so. And this is the issue I had with the pattern. It stated that the simplest way to pleat the skirt onto the waistband was to do a one directional pleat. That was the first issue. The second was that is stated to extend the waistband four inches beyond the waistline of the bodice. The problem there is now the skirt waistband would be three inches (after seam allowance) to long for the waistline and to pull the excess over to close the skirt. Would end up causing a strange "poof" in the fabric of the skirt.
Now, on the first issue I consulted my Who Wore What book by Juanita Leisch. It's the lady reenactors Bible!! It tells you pretty much every little detail a lady should know about her period clothing and in my opinion, is a necessary item for every lady reenactor!
In Who Wore What, it stated that one directional pleating was a myth, and most common waist treatments were either gathered, cartridge pleat, box pleat or two directional pleating. The two directional pleating was the most widely used treatment. And was done with the pleats in the front facing towards the front center with a inverted pleat in the front. And the pleats in the back facing the center back with another inverted pleat in the back. And two box pleats on each side. The gathered waist treatment was less used, as well as the box pleat. And the box pleat was more seen in in post war years.
The other notation made about waist treatments is that the opening of the skirt was set off center to the left .
Since I wasn't quite sure how to get the entire skirt what is refered to as "period correct", I decided to make it as period correct as I could get it. I did a two directional pleat on the skirt with inverted pleats in the front and back. I did not however get to put the box pleats in on the side, nor get the opening off center. But there is no rule saying I can't go back and redo the skirt over!!
Once the dress was constructed, the bodice was finished off with fabric covered buttons done in the same bright pink for the underside of the caps and the hem trim.
The hem was done period. The skirt itself was cut just a few inches short of the length needed and I sewn the pink fabric to the bottom of it. Right sides together. Then pulled it down so it was an extension of the skirt. I then measured three inches to give the full length we needed and folded the rest of the fabric underneath. Then pressed it and handsewn the hem down. The reason for the hem skirt is that since a lady's skirt often sweeps the floor in time it gets worn out quickly. It was much more feasible and easier to replace just a bottom hem of a skirt then the entire skirt. Since acquiring fabric during the war was often difficult and expensive!
The final touches were sewing the detachable collar and cuffs.
If you have any questions in constructing a Civil War period outfit, feel free to email me.

States War Ball Gown for American Girl

Here are a few pics of the States War ball gown for American Girl dolls. It could also fit other 18 inch dolls, or most of anyway.
Here is the back of the bodice. I made small teeny weeny buttonholes of five each on either side of the back bodice, and strung it with a purple ribbon. Just like the real ball gowns!!

And here is a full view of the dress with off white lace trim around the neckline and sleeve cuffs. The fabric is a excellent quality taffeta in lavender with white polka dots. Very sweet indeed and is still available in my etsy shop.

War Between the States Ball Gown....

I've been contemplating creating a ball gown for the American Girl doll. It seemed like the thing to do, to compliment my States War line I've got going.
Two Christmas' ago, I crafted a sweet cloth dolly called the Lady's Godey Book doll for my daughter. She came out rather well! And she also came complete with patterns for different outfits. Which I really admired!! One being a ball gown that actually laces up the back like period correct gowns do.
So I adapted my capped sleeve day dress into a ball gown. Decreasing the neckline to make it wider. I also kept the "caps" as the short sleeves and did not place in the bishop sleeves. I then lengthened the skirt.
The gown itself is made from a heavier weight taffeta in lavender with white polka dots. I then trimmed the gown off in a pretty off white lace with ribbon weaving and an off white lace in the sleeves.
Check it out on my esty shop; www.katandthefiddle.etsy.com

2nd Place Winner at the Fair.....

Okay folks, I said I would post a pic. And here it is!! Not included in the picture is the pantaletts and chemise that went with it. The dress was a capped sleeve day dress, and I switched the sleeves around to have a split in the top. The 1850's bonnet is below the dress and went well with the dress!!
My painting took 4th place in the Professional Art division. And now Im looking forward to next year's fair, with hopefully with me entering more than two items.

Tennessee Valley Fair

Well our Fair is in full swing now, and this year I finally managed to submit entries to it. Last year I think I had just missed the deadline getting them in. I also was a little concerned finding my way all the way up to Knoxville. LOL....it really wasn't that hard to do!
Anyway, this year I submitted one of my paintings into the Professional Art Division. I painted a two foot by two and a half foot acrylic on canvas titled "Paragon Drive In." It is a 50's themed painting with several vintage cars. I have to say it was one of my favorites pieces, and considering Im not a car buff, and never have painted cars before. I did a tremendous job on it. I ended up only placing 4th in the class. But still a good placing.
My other entry was a complete doll outfit. For this I sewed a beautiful capped sleeve day dress out of the green plaid homespun that I had got several yards of it. I can't tell you enough how lovey a fabric it is!!I've made several doll dresses out of it already, and each one has been snapped up!!
Now, for the capped sleeves I changed them a bit. And applied a pretty off white soutache braid to the capped sleeves. Along with the dress, I submitted a pair of doll pantaletts and doll chemise, and of course I added my 1850's doll bonnet that I had made. It was made with a gold watermark taffeta, and it complimented the dress well. My doll outfit took 2nd place in the Doll Show!!
I'll be picking my entries up on monday, and I will post some pics of the doll outfit. Sorry, I forgot to take some pics of it before I brought my entries to the fair!!